phillips



(No Model.) 4 Sheets- Sheet 1.

J. "0. PHILLIPS.

BMBROIDERING MACHINE.

No. 382,619; Patented MayB, 1888.

.Jkzd 0221x5753.

N. PETERS. Phnloliihflgnpher. Wash ngton. D. C.

I (No Model.) 4 V -4 Sheets'Shet 2. f J. O; PHILLIPS.

EMBRQIDERING MACHINE.

No. 382,619; Patnted Maya," 1888'.-

(No Model.) I 4 Sheets Sheet 4.

' J. O. PHILLIPS. 1

EMBROIDERING MACHINE. Q I i I v No. 382,619. Patented-.May 8, 1888'. I

- UNI-TED- STATES j PATENT OFFICE.

JoHN 0. PHILLIPS, oF'I YNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO BENJAMIN H. DORMAN, OF SAME PLACE.

EMBF tOIDE RING -MACHIN E. I

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 382,619, dated May 8,

Application ma Ju]y2B,1E 8 6. Serial No; 299.296. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.-

Beit known that 1, JOHN 0. PHILLIPS, or

Lynn, county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Multiple-Sewing and Embroidering Machines,

ofwhich thefollowing description, in connec:

stretched over rollers carried by a frame, the

movement of which is controlled, by a pantograph of usual construction.

In my improved machine the material to be sewed is'stretched between rollersmade ad-. justable on a stretchersframe, thefmovement of which is controlled by the operator through a pantograph mechanism, the roller'sbeing adjustable with relation to each otherto en-.

able pieces of fabric of different sizes to be properly stretched between them.

The needles, any desired number'of which may be employed, are attached to adjustable carriers shown as pivoted upon blocks adjust-ably attached to a crosshead, which, as herein shown, is reciprocated horizontally, the material being held in substantially vertical position, the stretcher-frame carrying the material beingsuspended, and being movable in any direction in a vertical plane. (lo-operating' with these needles are a series of rotating hooks, which contain bobbins, provided,preferably,with a thread of cotton, silk, or wool, or

' it may be chenille, which is to appear as the face of the material, the bobbin-holding slide being adjustable with relation to the hook to accommodate bobbins of different thickness.

The especial features in which my invention consists will be hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims at the end of this specification.

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sufficient portion of one of my improved machines to enable myinvention to be understood; Fig. 2, a left-handend view of Fig. 1; Fig. 2, a detail in side elevation of the pantograph-handle. and its attached tracer. View of a needle carrier and the block to which forming mechanism.

Fig. 3 is a plan,

it isattached, together with the needleand presser-foot; Fig. 4, a side elevation'o'f Fig.3;

Fig. 5, an enlarged detail of one end of the roll for holding the material, together with the adjustable stretcher-bars, over which the .material "passes between the said rolls. Fig. 6 is an enlarged vertical partial section in theline m, Fig. 1, chiefly to, show parts of the stitch- Figs. 7 and 8 are details of one of the stretching-dogs, there being one such "device attached to the stretcher- A frame at each side in line with the line of stitching, the same being hid behind other parts of Fig. 1. Figs. 9 and 10 represent portions of the clutching mechanism removed .from Fig. 1, and Fig. 11 represents the dog and its attached shaft and finger.

ssf

The frame-work A, of suitable shape to support'the'bearings for the working parts,-has

mounted in'it the driver-shaft A, provided with abevel-gear, A which engages and rotates a bevel-gear, A the neck of which isv held loosely in a bracket or stand, Afithe said bevel gear being splined on the shaft A The shaft A is'extended at its upper end through a box in a bracket, A, (shown in Figs. 1 and 6,) the said bracket being bolted to the stationary plate A.

a suitable stud,a, to'serve as a pivot'for .a

bevel-gear, a, which is engaged and rotated bythe bevel-gear, a, fast on theshaft A The The bracket A has also bevel-gear a has attached to and moving in unison withit the spur-gear a, which engages a pinion, a, fast on the camshaft a having suitable bearings supported bythe frame work. The cam-shaft a, extended across the machine, has at or near each end, outside the framework, a cam, b, which is shaped at its periphery substantially as shown in Fig. 6, to act upon the arms b, one at each end of the rock-shaft b, to which are adj ustably attached by suitable set-screws, b the take-up levers "b one lever for each needle.

Each arm b is adjustable on the rock-shaft b? by a set-screw, b (see Fig. 6,) adjustment of said arms enabling the effective movement of the take-up levers to be varied according to the thread employed and the material being, stitched. The rock-shaft b has also attached to it by a suitable set-screw, as b, (seeFi'g'; 6,) a finger, b, which cooperates with a stop, I j

and spring I), the said stop arresting the downward movement of the arm b, and eonsequently the throw of the take-up levers If.

These two cams b at their inner sides are provided with cam-grooves b, (shown by dotted lines in Figs. 2 and 6,) in which grooves enter roller-studs t, attached to arms 0, pivoted on studs 0, one arm at each side of the machine, each of the said arms at or near its upper end being shown as slotted to receive a square block, o loose on a stud or pin extended from the erosshead a laid upon the plate A", the cross-head having attached to it by a screw,c", or in other suitable manner, a series of like blocks, 0 preferably grooved transversely at 44, (see Figs. 4 and 6,) to embrace a lip or flange, 45, (see Fig. 6,) of the cross-head 0 the said lip and groove preventing movement of the said blocks upon the cross-head in the direction of the length of the carriages, but permitting, when the screws 0 are loose, the lateral adjustment of the said blocks on the crosshead, to thus enable the needle-carriers d, attached to the block, to be placed in position to co-operate each with a hook, h, the blocks where the screws pass through them being slotted. (See Fig. 3.) Each block c has piv oted to it at d a carrier, d, each carrier having attached to it not only a needle, (P, but also a presser-foot, 2.

Each eye'pointed needle d is provided with a thread taken from a suitable spool, e, or it may be a bobbin, the said thread in practice being passed around a suitable tension device or wheel, 0, thence through the eye of a takeup lever, 'b, and the guideeye 6', (see Fig. 3-,) and thence through the eye ofthe needle.

Each carrier is provided at one side with a screw, f, having, as herein shown, an eccentric head, the said screw co-operating with a hook or latch, f, pivoted atf on the block 0 to form a locking device to keep the carrier locked in operative position with relation to the block, the adjustment of the eccentricallyheaded screw, or it might be a pin, enabling the hookf to engage it properly, whatever may be the particular position of the carrier with relation to the block 0 owing to the position of the carrier adjustingserew f, the latter being provided to enable the needle to be correctly adjusted to have its loop of thread entered by the point of the hook h, to be described.

Each needle (1 is held in its carrier by a screw, d, and the distance of the eye of the needle from the end of the carrier, or the distance through the material to which the eye of the needle shall pass, is determined by an adjusting-screw, d, (see Fig. 3,)which, when the screw d is loosened, may be turned to move the needle outward in its carrier. Each carsize, fast to the end of the hook-driving shaft g, the said gears being shown in full lines in Fig. 2.

The hook-driving shaft supported in suit able bearings, has fast to it a series of bevelgears, which engage like bevel-gears, 9, fast on theshafts which at their upper ends have rotating hooks h, of usual construction, the said shafts being hereinafter denominated hook-shafts. The hooks h herein shown are of the \Vheeler and \Vilson class, recessed at their faces, shown as placed uppermost, the said hooks receiving bobbins h, of any usual and suitable construction, the said bobbins containing either cotton, silk, or woolen threads, or yarns, or chenille. The bobbins are retained in place by bobbin-holders h", the shanks of which are extended each through a suitable bracket, h, where they have applied to their threaded parts suitable adj Listing-nuts, If, the said shanks (see Fig. 6) being surrounded by suitable springs to permit the bobbin-holders to press in a yielding manner upon the bobbins. Each bracket h is held adj ustably by a thumb-nut, h.

The material, m, to be stitched or embroidered is attached in usual or suitable manner to the rollersz' i, and moved more or less about one of the said rolls when the machine is started. The said material is wound from one to the other roll as the work progresses. Each roller has its journals at each end mounted in like boxesyiflattached in an adjustable manner to the stretcherframe mby bolts i, extended through slots in the said frame.

The stretcher-frame at each ofils upper and lower corners has a footplate, m, which is extended therefrom into a guide-box, m, fixed to the frame, the plates and guide-box guiding the stretcher-frame in its vertical and in its lateral movements in a vertical plane, as will be described. The rolls i t have at each end suitable ratchet-wheels, 47, the teeth of which are engaged by suitable pawls, i, on arms i fast on the boxes 6, the said pawls holding the rolls with the material stretched thereon. The material,m,betwcen the rolls t t" is passed over stretcher-bars 2', herein shown as adj ustabl y secured to the stretcher-frame by bolts 71, Fig. 5, preferably having thumbnuts, whereby the said stretcher-bars may be quickly adjusted horizontally toward or away from the axis of the said rolls, to enable the material, an, whatever may be its thickness, to be placed against the throat-plate n, and so as to be moved in a plane parallel to the face of the said throat-plate, the latter being pro vided with suitable holes-for the passage of The stretcher-frame m has attached to it-atits opposite sides in the lineof stitching stretching-dogs composed of bent plates m. (See Figs. 8 and 9, which figures show the said dogs and parts of thestretcher-frame and part of the fabric, for in the other figures the stretchingdogs are concealed.) The dogs near one end are provided with teeth m to engage the material. Each dog has an .ear, m in which is placed a thumbserew, m", one end of which is seated in a block,m",bet'ween the side bars of the streteher-frame,the said thumb-screw serving. to adjust the dogs to stretch the material in the line of stitching. Each dog is slotted,

as at m, and a bolt, m, extended through said slot and entering the block m, serves not only asa guide or support for the dog, but also keeps, the block and dog in proper position vertically on the stretcher-frame.

The upper cross-bar of the stretcher-frame m has attached to it, as herein shown, yokes 12 which hang on sheaves n, supported by levers n pivoted upon uprights n, theinner ends of the said levers being acted upon by a weight, a, which substantially counterbalances the weight of the stretcher-frameand its attached parts, the said frame being suspended, as will be understood, upon the said sheaves, and being free to be moved in any direction in a vertical plane. Y

The frame is moved by a hand-lever, n, and

two links, a a, one of which is jointed to a standard, 0, (see Fig. 1,) secured to the upper edge of the stretcher-frame, the other link, a,

being jointed to a lug secured to a rigid bar,

, (not shown, but of usual construction,) all as commonly practiced in machines employing pantographs.

Instead of the particular pantograph devices .herein shown by which tomove the stretcher I frame, I may employ any other usual and suit- I able well-known equivalent device for like purposes.

The belt-receiving pulley is not fixed directly to the shaft A, but is a clutch-pulley composed, essentially, of a wheel, 0, loose on the shaft'A, and having at or near its center at one 'sidean annularly-projecting. hub, 0, provided internally with pockets 13, to receive the end 142 of a dog,14,connected to one end of .plate O the said spring ,acting normally to throw the broad end 14. of the said dog toward the inner side of the hub C, to engage the pockets .13 thereof as the pulley C in its rotation reaches the said dog.

While the stitch-forming mechanism is being, operated,- the dog 14 rests in one of the pockets 13 of the hub O of the constantly-rotating wheel 0; but the stitch-forming mechanism having been operated to form a stitch the finger 17 of the dog 14 in the rotation of the wheel Cmeets the bufler 20,which causes.

the shaft 15 to be turned to disengage the dog 14 from the pocket 13, holding it, and there-' after the wheel 0 runs loosely on the shaft A without actuating thestitching parts, thestitching parts being permitted toremain at rest while the stretcher-frame isbeing moved" to place the material inposition to have the next stitch made in it. I

The buffer is herein shown as made movable with relation to a lever, 10, having its fulcrum on astud, p, the shank of the buffer,surrounded' by a spiral spring, 22, having a pin, 23, to act against one end of the said spring. The lever p has a pin, 23*, to which is joined a spring," 24, attached to a link, 25, pivoted to, a treadle, 26, the said spring2 i normally acting'to keep the lever p againstastop-,'27, fixed to the framework, so as to place the buffer 20 in position to be struck by the finger l7 and stop the machine. The lever 10 has pivoted upon it at ,r a releasing-lever, r, (shown asofelbow shape,)

the said lever being acted upon by a spring,

r which normally keeps one arm of thesaid lever in contact with a stop-pin, W, on the le--- ver 19. a

When the stitch-forming devices are at rest,

the finger 17 rests against the buffer 20 and f the lever p rests against the stop 27. Now to start the stitch-forming devices the operator will depress the treadle and draw downthe link 25, and the upper end of the latter, in engagement with one end of the releasing-lever 'r, will effect the movement of the lever go far enough to place it against the stop' 28, which movement will remove the bufi"er from the finger 17, permitting the dog 14., acted upon by the spring 18, to be engaged by the nextpocket 13 to overtake it.

- The dog having been engaged, the disk or plate C and shaft A are started and made to rotate in unison with the wheel 0; but as soon as the pin or projection 29 of the hub meets thereleasing-lever r the latter is turned on its a pivot r far enough to be freed from the link 25, which immediately permits the spring 24 to throw the leverp upward against thestop 27, leaving the bufier in position to arrest the finger at the completion of-the next stitch. and:

\ a'sjtop the mechanism. The link is curved, f; asshown at 30, to co-operate with the stud 28 fits the treadle is depressed to thereby push the leverp backward.

It is very essential in a machine of this class, wherein the feeding of the material and the length of stitch is made by a pantograph, es pecially when embroidery is being done wherein nearly every stitch differs from the preceding one in length, that the stitch forming mechanism be stopped after each stitch, and remain at rest until the material has been moved for the next stitch, and to insure this the employment of an automatic clutch is a necessary element of a complete and practical machine, and instead of the particular clutch- -pulley herein described, which is adapted to stop the machine after each full rotation of the shaft a", I may employ any other well-known usual equivalent clutch pulley and treadlc mechanism.

In Fig. 6 the cross-head 0 to which are secured the needle carriers, is drawn back as it will be when the stitch-forming mechanism is at rest and the stretcher-frameis being moved.

When the wheel 0 in its rotation engages the dog 14 and starts the stitch-forming parts, the cross-head is moved toward the material,m, until the needle d penetrates the material, and the point of the needle having entered the needle-throat the presser-foot strikes the material and holds it against the throat near the spot where each needle is then penetrating the material, the spring on the presser-foot yielding and the shank of the foot entering the carrier as the needle completes its movement to place the loop of thread carried by it in position to be entered by the hook 71, which causes the loop of needle-thread to be cast about the bobbin, the material carried by the bobbin locking the loop of needle thread and forming a lockstitch, the material carried by the bobbin be-' ing preferably that used to appearprominently at the face ofthe fabric or leather beingstitched.

I do not claim simply a multiple-sewing machine to stitch a series of seams, as such machines employing both shuttles and loopers and making both thelock and chain stitch are old and well known; nor do I broadly claim a pantograph or movable frame.

In Fig. 6, which represents some ofthe parts of the machine on an enlarged scale, I have shown the cam b as provided with an adjustable block, 10", the outer edge of which constitutes an operative part of the said cam to move the take-up lever 11 at the proper times to control the needle thread and afford sufficient slack for the movement of the material in accordance with the pattern being stitched. The cam. when adjusted into position is secured by the screw w, (shown by dotted lines,) it acting against the shank 20 w ofthe cam acts upon the arm I), the lever b is lifted, and the thread coming from the bobbin h is drawn through the material. WVhen the end of the arm I) rests upon the block w", as in Fig. 6, the needle-thread is slackened to When the part ing, the combination, with the sliding crosshead a, a series of needle'carriers attached thereto, the shaft a connected with the said slide to actuate the latter, and mechanism for rotating said shaft, of the shaft 9, geared to the said shaft (5, a series of hook-shafts geared to the shaft 9 a series of rotary hooks carried by the hook-shafts, a stretcher-frame having rollers to hold the material, and apantograph to operate the said frame, substantially as set forth.

2. In a machine for stitching or embroider ing, the reciprocating cross-head, an attached block, and a needle-carrier pivoted to the latter, combined with a locking device to hold the carrier to the block, substantially as described.

3. The reciprocating cross head, connected block, and adjusting-screw f, combined with the carrier d, pivoted to the block, and the presser-foot sustained in the said carrier, substantially as described.

4. The reciprocating cross head, connected block, and the needle-carrier pivoted to the block and holding the presser-foot, and provided with an eccentric screw or stud, combined with means to adjust the carrier with relation to the block and with the latch f, to operate all substantially as described.

5. The combination,with the needle-carrier and needle, of the holding-screw d,tapped in the side of said carrier and abutting against the side of the needle, and the adjusting-screw d, tapped in the carrier above the needle and abutting against the top or end of the shank of the latter, substantially as set forth.

6. The cross head, its attached blocks, needle-carriers pivoted on the said blocks, the shaft 64 and cams b, combined with the rockshaft b its arms b, and series oftake-up levers b substantially as described.

-7. In a machine for stitching or embroidering, the suspended universally movable stretcher-frame and rollers it, having their journals in hearings on the said frame, combined with adjustable stretcher-bars i at or near each roller and adjustable toward and from the axes of the latter, and with the me dle-hole plate to permit the material to be adjusted to the face of the needle-hole plate, substantially as described.

8. The stret'chenframe, its attached yokes, plates and guides at the corners of the stretcher-frame, and the rollers z i, and boxes secured to the stretcher-frame to hold the journals of the said rolls, combined with the levers n counterbalancing -weight n, and

sheaves on which the said yokes rest and move, substantially as described.

9. In a machine for stitching or embroidering, the shaft g*, a series of hook-shafts, hooks thereomgearing, substantially as described,to rotate the said hook-shafts, the bobbin-holders to hold bobbins in the face of each hook, and the throat-plate, the reciprocating crosshead, its attached blocks, the needle-carriers attached to the blocks and slotted at one side, the resser-feet having their shanks inserted in the said carriers loosely, springs to surroundthe shanks of the pressers, and means, substantially as described,to govern the extent of outward movementof the presser-feet, com: bined with means, substantially as described,

to reciprocate the said cross-head and carrying the presser-feet against the material while the needle is in the material, and removing the said presser-footfrom the material when the needles are withdrawn from and the material is being moved for a new stitch, substantially as described.

10. The stretcher-frame, means, substantially as described, to suspend it, the rollers i i, mounted thereon, the cross-head, its attached blocks and carriers containing the needles and presser-feet, the shaft 0?, means, substantially'as described, actuated by it to move the crosshead, the hooks 71, their shafts g, the shaft gt, gearing between itand the hook-shafts to rotate the latter, and gears gand 9, com-- bined with a clutch and withmeans, substantially as described, whereby the shaft (1 is arrested after the completion of each'stitchtby any one needle and hook, in order to permit.

the stretcher-frame and material tobe moved to this specification in the presence of two.

subscribing witnesses.

JOHN 0. PHILLIPS.

Witnesses:

W. W. J ENNESS, JAMES W. OoGsWELL. 

